Cave d'Occi Winery
Niigata, Niigata
Cave d’Occi Winery is a pioneering Japanese winery in Niigata that produces estate-grown wines rooted in sandy-soil terroir, close relationships between people and land, and a strong human philosophy of winemaking.
A Winery Between Mountain and Sea
Cave d'Occi Winery is located at the foot of Kakuda Mountain, stretching gently along the Sea of Japan, about a 30-minute drive southwest from Niigata City. Surrounded by vast vineyards as far as the eye can see, the winery offers visitors the opportunity to experience winemaking firsthand, enjoy wine and cuisine, and spend a fulfilling day across a variety of spaces designed for relaxation and discovery.
The name “Cave d’Occi” means “Ochi’s Wine Cellar”, derived from the surname of its founder, Kiichiro Ochi.
Founder Kiichiro Ochi and the Birth of Cave d’Occi
Kiichiro Ochi studied winemaking in Germany and gained experience at wineries across Japan before founding Cave d’Occi. He also contributed to the establishment of several wineries in Hokkaido.
He later met his business partner, Chieko Kakegawa, the mother of the current head winemaker Fumito Kakegawa. Together, they began cultivating wine grapes in Niigata at a time when no one in the region was growing grapes for wine.
Today, Kiichiro has stepped away from managing Cave d’Occi and operates Occigabi Winery in Yoichi, Hokkaido.
The winery’s story began in 1992, more than 30 years ago. While Japan’s major wine regions have since expanded nationwide, Niigata was then considered uncharted territory for winemaking.
Despite this, they chose to pioneer grape cultivation at the foot of Kakuda Mountain, guided by their belief in the land’s potential.
Why Build a Winery Surrounded by Vineyards
The first wine grape vines were planted in Niigata’s sand dune area in 1992. The site was deliberately chosen approximately 800 meters away from the main road heading west from Niigata City.
At the time, most wineries purchased grapes from farmers rather than cultivating their own. However, the founders believed it was only natural for a winery to be surrounded by vineyards and wanted to oversee the entire winemaking process, from grape growing to bottling.
Estate-Grown Philosophy and the Growth of a Village
The wines produced in Niigata are Japanese wines made using 100% estate-grown grapes. From the beginning, the goal was to demonstrate that “Japanese wine can be delicious.”
In the early years, only a few groups per day reached the winery by following muddy roads through watermelon fields. Guests were personally guided through the vineyards and cellar to see how wine grapes were grown and how wine was made.
Over time, visitors increased from Niigata, the metropolitan area, and beyond. A restaurant, bakery, and shop were added, roads were paved, and access improved. With the later construction of a spa and hotel, Cave d’Occi evolved into a place resembling a small village.
Today, the winery is led by head winemaker and director Fumito Kakegawa.
Terroir of Kakuda Mountain
At the time of the winery’s founding, the surrounding farmland was used to grow tobacco, watermelons, and melons, and no grapes were cultivated. Nevertheless, the decisive factor in choosing this location was terroir—the natural environment in which wine is made.
The soil is sandy, providing excellent drainage and producing delicate wines. Because sandy soil is poor in nutrients, compost is added and grass is grown every year to cultivate the soil.
The vineyards benefit from westerly sea winds, high heat accumulation, low summer rainfall, minimal snowfall in winter, and high humidity that protects vines and buds.
Finding the Right Grape Variety
One of the winery’s most important principles is finding the right grape variety for the land. Once a suitable variety is matched with the terroir, producing stable, high-quality wine becomes possible.
Since its founding, more than 40 grape varieties have been cultivated. Today, 19 varieties remain planted, including vines that are over 30 years old.
A turning point came in 2005 when Albariño was encountered during a visit to Spain’s Atlantic coast. Its disease resistance, ease of cultivation, and ability to express jasmine- and tea-like aromas in sandy soil made it perfectly suited to the region.
Canopy Management and Vineyard Discipline
Canopy management is central to vineyard practices at Cave d’Occi. By carefully controlling branch growth, cluster positioning, and vine vigor, the winery creates an environment that improves grape quality.
Straightening branches upward enhances sunlight exposure and ventilation, helping to suppress disease. Leaf removal and pruning are performed with careful attention to sap flow, which is essential for delivering nutrients to the grape clusters.
The estate vineyards cover 9 hectares.
White grape varieties include Albariño, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, while black varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Merlot.
Fumito often tells the staff, “If you keep the vineyard clean, the vineyard will naturally improve.”
Winemaking as a Human Process
Grapes vary in character depending on the land and the weather of each year. Even in difficult vintages, delicious wines can be made through constant trial and error.
Wine culture embraces these variations. Because wine is made from fruit, change from year to year is inevitable and accepted as part of its appeal.
Annual production totals approximately 30,000 bottles from estate-grown grapes and around 100,000 bottles in total.
Classical Wines and the Doubutsu Series
While rooted in classical winemaking, Cave d’Occi also pursues creative expression through the Doubutsu (Animal) series, featuring illustrated labels of animals such as badgers, honeybees, and penguins.
Fumito describes the series as “completely my own hobby.”
If the cépage series is classical music, the Doubutsu series is jazz—free, interpretive, and guided by personal inspiration rather than textbook correctness.
Concept Over Technique
Fumito’s winemaking begins with imagery rather than technique. He imagines how a wine will be enjoyed and what role it should play, then guides the wine toward that vision.
“What I value above all is the concept of each wine. Vinification techniques are merely tools. Who is making the wine and what they are thinking is at the heart of the production process.”
Although many natural factors remain beyond human control, it is people who ultimately move hearts. With faith in Niigata’s potential, the team continues to make wine so that Japanese wine can be enjoyed as part of everyday life.
