OMISHIMA MINNANO WINERY
Imabari, Ehime
Omishima Minnano Winery is the first and only winery on Omishima Island, Ehime, founded as a regional revitalization project initiated by world-renowned architect Toyo Ito. Established by transforming abandoned mandarin orange orchards into vineyards, the winery is rooted in the landscapes, climate, soil, and community of the Seto Inland Sea.
Today, under the stewardship of Yusuke and Shoko Kawada, it produces wines that express the terroir of Shikoku, with a distinctive saline character shaped by the sea. The project integrates agriculture, architecture, and local collaboration, embodying the meaning of “Minnano” — “everyone’s” — as a winery built together with the community.
A Winery Born from Architectural Vision and Local Concern
Omishima Minnano Winery is located on Omishima, a beautiful island covered in mandarin orchards in the middle of the Shimanami Sea Route connecting Honshu and Ehime Prefecture.
The project was initiated by renowned Japanese architect Toyo Ito, who sought to utilize abandoned farmland on Omishima and create a new cultural and economic attraction for the island.
Toyo Ito began visiting Omishima when the “Imabari Toyo Ito Museum of Architecture” was established. Through repeated visits, he became deeply drawn to the island’s scenery and its people.
At the same time, Omishima was facing a serious challenge. As a major mandarin-producing region, the island had long depended on citrus agriculture. However, due to the declining birthrate and aging population, the number of farmers abandoning mandarin cultivation increased every year. If left unchecked, this trend threatened the island’s economic sustainability.
Witnessing the outflow of young people and the steady rise in abandoned orchards, Toyo Ito asked himself: “Couldn’t we do something to revitalize the island?”
His answer was decisive. He rented an abandoned mandarin orchard, converted it into a vineyard for vinification grapes, and established the first winery on Omishima.
Yusuke and Shoko Kawada: From Aspiration to Commitment
Today, grape cultivation and winemaking are led on-site by Mr. and Mrs. Kawada.
Yusuke Kawada studied at the University of Yamanashi, one of the few institutions in Japan offering a specialized course in winemaking. While still a student, he dreamed of starting his own winery someday. Toyo Ito, a personal acquaintance, invited him to join the Omishima project. In June 2015, Yusuke moved to the island.
“Omishima has the Seto Inland Sea, a wonderful climate, and delicious fish, but it doesn’t yet have wine. It would be pleasant to grow grapes while surrounded by the beautiful and calm sea,” Yusuke recalls.
His wife, Shoko Kawada, joined slightly later in April 2016. At the time, the current winery building still functioned as a café. She became a founding member under the concept of operating as a café by day and a wine bar by night, overseeing wine sales and service.
Yusuke and Shoko met through their work at the winery. After marrying, they began running the winery together, combining viticulture, winemaking, hospitality, and sales.
Early Hardships and the First Harvest
The path was not easy. Vineyard cultivation faced numerous obstacles, including typhoons and animal damage. In 2016, the grapes successfully bore fruit — only to be entirely eaten by wild boars.
Despite these setbacks, they persevered with the support of local farmers. In 2017, they achieved their first successful harvest. As no winery facility existed yet, winemaking was outsourced to domaine tetta in Okayama Prefecture.
In 2019, their long-awaited winery was completed. Their continued efforts began to influence other farmers on the island, and some started expressing interest in grape cultivation themselves.
“Minnano”: A Winery Built by Everyone
The winery operates a vineyard ownership system. Owners participate directly in hands-on experiences such as harvesting and planting, and wine is handcrafted together through this collaborative approach.
The word “Minnano” means “everyone’s” in English. The name reflects the philosophy that this is “a winery built by everyone.”
Omishima: Geography, Culture, and Identity
Omishima Minnano Winery is the only winery on the island. Located in northern Ehime Prefecture, it benefits from the sunshine and mild climate characteristic of the Seto Inland Sea.
Omishima is the fifth largest island in the Seto Inland Sea, with a population of approximately 6,000. At its center stands Oyamazumi Shrine, long revered as Japan’s general guardian deity, giving the island the name “God’s Island” and a deep historical legacy.
Agriculture centered on mandarin oranges has long thrived here. In recent years, the island has also gained recognition as a sacred destination for cyclists traveling the Shimanami Kaido.
Yusuke reflects, “I wanted to start a winery, so I went to Hokkaido and Nagano. But I always had a longing in my heart for a place near the sea.”
A Vineyard by the Sea
The vineyard lies in an exceptionally seaside location, only 20 to 30 meters from the water at its closest point.
Despite this proximity, salt damage does not occur. The winds from the sea help disperse humidity — something grapes do not tolerate well — making the land surprisingly suitable for viticulture.
The total vineyard area is 2.5 hectares. The primary grape varieties cultivated are Chardonnay, Muscat Bailey A, Merlot, and Pinot Gris.
Four Keywords: Landscape, Climate, Soil, and Land
Grape cultivation on Omishima is defined by four essential elements: landscape, climate, soil, and land use.
The landscape offers sweeping views over the archipelago of the Seto Inland Sea. The calm waters carry sea breezes to the vineyards without causing salt damage. Reflections from the sea act as a second sun, evenly illuminating the grapes. The sun rises and sets over the water, watching over the vines throughout the day.
The climate closely resembles that of Katsunuma City in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan’s most famous wine-producing region. With relatively low annual rainfall and sunny summers, conditions are ideal for grape growth. Light summer rains assist in ripening grape bunches, contributing to richly flavored wines.
The soil consists of Omishima’s characteristic well-drained sandy composition. The vineyards are covered with gravelly sandy loam, highly favorable for grape maturation.
The land itself was formerly abandoned farmland. The gently sloping, south-facing terrain — originally ideal for citrus — is equally well suited for grapes to produce flavorful fruit.
Pergola System and Soil Philosophy
The winery uses the pergola system, a cultivation method common in western Japan, where vine branches hang downward like a tunnel.
In western Japan’s warm climate, grapes tend to ripen earlier, and acidity can drop at harvest. To maintain proper acidity, vines require sufficient vigor. However, masago soil retains little fertilizer and can weaken vine strength. Therefore, careful soil management is essential.
The winery is committed to the belief that “the local climate creates the local flavor.” Only fertilizers sourced from nearby areas are used.
They apply fully matured compost from an organic pig farmer on a neighboring island, whose pigs are fed lemon grass. Oyster shells from the Seto Inland Sea are crushed to provide minerals. Waste mushroom beds from a local shiitake producer are also crushed and returned to the fields as organic matter. Pruned branches are chipped finely and reintegrated into the soil as windbreak trees around the fields grow taller.
Only organic fertilizers are used, avoiding chemical fertilizers entirely. The aim is to increase soil microorganisms and create an environment where vines absorb nutrients naturally from the soil rather than being directly fed.
As a result, diverse flowers and grasses grow throughout the vineyard. By maintaining them at appropriate lengths, the soil retains balanced firmness and proper aeration, ensuring healthy vine development.
Production and Terroir Expression
Annual production from estate-grown grapes is 11,500 bottles. Including wines made from purchased grapes, total annual production reaches 16,000 bottles as of 2024.
The central aim of Omishima Minnano Winery is to express the terroir of Shikoku, Ehime, and Omishima.
Remarkably, their wines carry a subtle sense of the sea. Wines produced on Omishima are characterized by a distinctive salty nuance — a reflection of their maritime environment.
Winery Facilities and Architecture
The winery is situated on the grounds of “Ikoi no Ie,” a lodging facility created from a renovated wooden school building. Nearby stands the “Mother and Child Museum” of sculptor Ken Iwata, known for his warm artistic style.
The stainless steel fermentation tanks are custom-made in Slovenia. Their design lies between a sealed type with a small lid and an open type that allows easy grape input. This hybrid structure minimizes oxidation while improving operational efficiency.
Grape pressing takes place on the second floor. A gravity-flow system is used, allowing juice to fall naturally into tanks below. This method avoids unnecessary mechanical stress on the wine.
The winery’s retail and sales space is located separately, on the approach to Oyamazumi Shrine in the island’s center, about a 15-minute drive from the production site. Positioned along a major tourist route, it serves as a welcoming stop for visitors.
Commitment to Japanese Wine
“It is often said that Japan’s high temperature and humidity make it unsuitable for grape cultivation compared to Europe,” Yusuke explains. “But we are committed to producing good wines. We hope that through our wines, people can feel Japan’s climate and become interested in Japanese wine.”
Omishima Minnano Winery stands as a testament to resilience, collaboration, and the belief that local climate, local materials, and local people together create authentic wine.
