Domaine Hide
Minami-Alps, Yamanashi
Domaine Hide is a winery in Minami-Alps, Yamanashi, but its character cannot be explained by location or grape varieties alone.
It is the result of one individual’s long and unconventional life, shaped by aviation, the ocean, and clinical psychology, and by a persistent question of how to live and create responsibly within nature.
From Aviation and the Ocean to Psychology
Domaine Hide is a winery in Minami-Alps, Yamanashi. It is run by Hideo Shibutani, several winemakers, and a group of young people who have moved to the area with farming aspirations, known as the “Lokal Vitalisation Cooperator.”
Hideo was born in Kanda, Tokyo, grew up in Osaka, and worked for an airline company after graduating from a university in Tokyo. He served as an air traffic controller and airport manager on the Kerama Islands in Okinawa, an island with a population of about 50 people. After a corporate merger, he left the company and remained in Kerama to pursue scuba diving, eventually establishing a diving school. While teaching high school students and engaging with children who were not attending school, he confronted the limits of trying to solve problems with goodwill alone.
Returning to Tokyo, he studied clinical psychology at the University of Tokyo Graduate School and worked as a clinical psychologist for students and adults from the age of 32.
The Turning Point: Earthquake and Winemaking
On 11 March 2011, he experienced the Great East Japan Earthquake. Reflecting on what he could leave behind by the age of 60, he realised that he wanted not only to listen to people’s inner lives but also to express himself through creation.
At the age of 50, he took a leave of absence from his position as a clinical psychologist, which he had held for 18 years, and began training at a winery in Katsunuma, Yamanashi, known for Koshu wine. He chose Katsunuma as it represented the highest standard of Japanese wine. After three years of training, he founded Domaine Hide in 2015.
Learning from the Sea and the Tides
His experience as a diver profoundly shaped his approach to agriculture and winemaking. Living in Kerama, he accompanied fishermen on night dives, helping them catch fish under artificial lights. Through more than 3,000 dives, he began questioning conventional farming practices.
“Why do people use so much pesticide on the fields when the sea grows so much delicious seafood without any chemicals or artificial substances?”
He learned that nature is deeply affected by tides and lunar cycles. Since running a small farm near the airport, he has applied a biodynamic approach, which continues today in his vineyards. Looking ahead, he aims to collect precise data on the relationship between tides and grape conditions, seeking to expand the perception of Japanese wine beyond light-bodied styles and toward a broader, richer range that pairs with diverse cuisines.
Searching for Land with Fast Drainage
Before a single vine was planted, Hideo Shibutani searched for land where water would disappear into the ground as quickly as possible.
To choose a site, he visited 46 locations across Japan, pouring water onto the soil to test drainage. Beginning in Yamaguchi and travelling east through Shikoku to Hokkaido, he ultimately settled in Minami-Alps, Yamanashi.
Dry Climate, Wind, and Stone-Rich Soil
Minami-Alps has long been described as “a land that scorches even on a moonlit night,” indicating low rainfall and dry conditions. The Yatsugatake Oroshi, a wind descending from Mount Fuji, disperses clouds and increases sunlight hours. Although historically challenging for agriculture, this dryness is ideal for organic viticulture, where excessive rain can be a major obstacle.
The vineyards are strewn with stones; every shovel strike hits rock. Beneath the soil lie Kaikoma plutonic rocks, derived from the Misaka Formation (approximately 25 million years ago). In this nutrient-poor environment, vines extend their roots deep underground, absorbing minerals and iron that contribute to complex, structured flavours in the grapes.
Three Principles of Viticulture
The first principle is to “produce wine from each and every vineyard.” Even crossing a single road can change soil composition and grape character. Blending such differences may produce a pleasant wine but risks overlooking the individuality of the land.
The second is to “follow the moon and vinify naturally.” As a former diver, Hideo remains attuned to the moon’s gravitational pull. During new and full moons, when tidal forces peak, grapes are at their most vigorous. Harvesting in accordance with lunar cycles forms the basis of his approach.
The third principle is “don’t let the grapes work too hard.” While Japanese viticulture can yield up to 500 bunches per vine, overburdened vines produce grapes prone to rot and fertiliser aromas. “It’s not good to work too hard, and it’s the same with people,” he says.
The main grape varieties grown are Muscat Bailey A and Pinot Noir. Muscat Bailey A is cultivated for its rare “cherry blossom” colour of the must, while Pinot Noir serves as a global benchmark of his skills as both farmer and winemaker.
Living and Working with Wine
At Domaine Hide, winemaking begins not with machines or formulas, but with attention—to the moon, to sound, and to the physical presence of people.
The winery is housed in an old private residence, where Hideo lives with his colleagues. Beginning his winemaking career in his fifties, he chose to remain on-site 24 hours a day, believing constant presence was essential to mastering the craft.
Vinification According to Lunar Cycles
In the cellar, lunar timing plays a key role, especially during racking. Wines racked at low tide tend to be firmer, while those racked at high tide develop a rounder, more mellow profile.
Barrels, Sound, and Foot Treading
Domaine Hide uses barrels from Taransaud and Nadalié, prized for their fine grain and tight seams, which prevent microbial intrusion and preserve wine quality.
Another defining practice is “listening to sound.” Wine produces distinct sounds as it ferments and moves within barrels. Differences in fermentation speed, influenced by barrel placement, can be detected audibly, guiding decisions about the right moment to bottle.
Rather than mechanical crushers, grapes are mostly processed by foot treading, a traditional French method. Light pressure preserves whole berries and yields mellow wines, while firmer steps create structured wines suitable for aging. The pressure is adjusted while imagining how the drinker will tilt the glass.
Through exports to Europe, Hideo hopes that wine will become a gateway for visitors to experience Japan itself. For him, wine is a means of communicating “Japaneseness” through taste rather than words.
