Les Vins Vivants– GUBI GUBI

Tomi, Nagano

LES VINS VIVANTS is a natural cidery and winery located in Tomi City, Nagano Prefecture, Japan. It is operated by Tomoko Ogino and Takahiro Ogino.

Tomoko is primarily responsible for apple and grape cultivation, while Takahiro oversees cider and wine production.

Takahiro’s Background

Takahiro was born in Yamanashi Prefecture, a region widely known as the center of Japanese wine production. He grew up in a family home with vineyards directly in front of the house and a winery just a few seconds’ walk away.

His parents enjoyed drinking, and growing up in this environment naturally led him to develop an interest in alcohol. Eventually, he decided that he wanted to pursue a career in the industry.

Encounter with Wine and Tomoko

While working at a restaurant in Tokyo, Takahiro met Tomoko, initially as a colleague. Through conversations about the depth and complexity of wine at the restaurant, he became increasingly fascinated by winemaking.

Although he had no prior farming experience, he developed a strong desire to make wine himself and began studying viticulture and vinification.

Professional Training in Japan and France

After resigning from the restaurant, Takahiro trained for six years at Grace Wine in Yamanashi. Grace Wine played a key role in spreading the reputation of “Koshu wine” internationally.

Following this period, he moved to France, where he gained experience with natural wine producers in Beaujolais and Alsace.

Move to Nagano and Foundation

Later, Takahiro and Tomoko relocated to Tomi City in Nagano Prefecture with the goal of establishing their own cidery and winery.

After moving, Tomoko studied vinification and apple cultivation for two years at JA Shinshu Ueda Farm.

In 2019, they founded LES VINS VIVANTS.

The Beginning of Natural Cider

Their journey into cider production began after encountering a natural cider made by La Cidrerie du Golfe while meeting various French producers.

They recall:
“Rich, deep, and complex, with a delicious flavour of apple. We were shocked to discover such a remarkable cider. We then thought that we wanted to grow apples with our own hands and produce ciders of the same quality in Japan. No — we thought we should.”

In Japan, wine is generally preferred over cider. However, they aim to challenge the common perception that wine is expensive while cider is inexpensive. They also seek to move beyond rigid categorizations such as “wine” and “cider.”

The ciders produced by LES VINS VIVANTS are not imitations of European products. Instead, they are original creations made from apples grown in Nagano, one of Japan’s most renowned apple-producing regions.

Geographic Setting

Tomi City is located in eastern Nagano. It is a region rich in natural beauty: more than half of its land area consists of mountains and forests, about a quarter is farmland, and the Chikuma River flows gently through the center of the city.

When they first visited the site where their cidery and winery now stand, they were captivated by the view. From the southern slopes, they could see the Yatsugatake Mountains and the Northern Alps, with Mount Asama rising on the opposite side. At that moment, they felt ready to live there for the rest of their lives.

Climate and Growing Conditions

Due to its cool climate, Tomi is well suited to apple cultivation with minimal reliance on artificial pesticides such as insecticides and fungicides.

On this land, they maintain a 0.8-hectare apple orchard, practicing reduced-pesticide farming.

In 2019, they developed a new orchard from previously unused land and began the challenge of growing apples entirely without pesticides.

Apple Varieties and Their Roles

The local apple varieties cultivated include:

Sun Fuji – contributes richness and depth
Shinano Gold – adds sweetness and complexity
Kougyoku (Jonathan) – provides bright acidity

Sun Fuji enhances richness and depth in the cider. Shinano Gold contributes sweetness and aromatic complexity. Kougyoku adds structure and freshness through acidity.

Cultivation Philosophy

The apple trees are intentionally trained to grow weakly. The philosophy is that weaker vegetative growth encourages reproductive energy.

When a tree senses stress, it directs more energy toward fertilization, resulting in fruit that becomes riper and more flavorful.

To achieve this, branches are deliberately trained to droop downward, controlling vigor and enhancing fruit quality.

The Meaning of the Name

The name LES VINS VIVANTS derives from the French words vins (“wines”) and vivants (“living”). The name expresses their philosophy of producing living wines and ciders.

Natural Fermentation Philosophy

In cider production, they aim to fully harness the natural power and potential of apples. Fermentation relies exclusively on wild yeast, and no additives are used.

To preserve the character of the apples and the individuality of each harvest year, no sulphites are added at any stage—from preparation through bottling.

Technical Challenges of Cider Production

Compared to grapes, apples have lower sugar content and higher acidity. This makes fermentation with wild yeast and secondary fermentation more technically challenging.

The cidery is temperature-controlled to minimize the risk of bacterial contamination, allowing safe fermentation using only wild yeast.

Méthode Ancestrale

To produce a well-balanced and expressive cider, Takahiro employs the traditional Méthode Ancestrale.

In this time-honored method, the cider is bottled during the final stage of primary fermentation, allowing fermentation to finish naturally in the bottle.

This technique enhances balance while preserving the authentic expression of the apples.

Aging and Evolution After Opening

Due to careful production and maturation, the cider does not need to be consumed immediately after opening.

It can be enjoyed over multiple days, as the flavor profile evolves from day one to day two, and from day two to day three.

Sustainable Architecture

The cidery and winery buildings reflect a commitment to sustainability.

Insulation imported from Denmark maintains internal temperatures below 18°C even during the height of summer, without the use of electric air conditioning.

This naturally regulated environment provides ideal conditions for apples and natural cider production.

Labels and “Japanese KAWAII”

An essential part of LES VINS VIVANTS’ identity is the artwork on their labels, designed by illustrator Yunico Uchiyama.

The collaboration began when Tomoko was drawn to his illustrations. She describes their ciders as “innocent, young, and like a teenage girl.”

This expression reflects their hope that the next generation—free from preconceived notions about wine or cider—will feel comfortable picking up their bottles.

Naming Inspired by Color

Tomoko expressed her desire to name the ciders after colors.

The names “Mizuiro,” “Ao,” and “Hakuro” were colors that came to Uchiyama’s mind as he tasted the cider and created the illustrations. He is, in a sense, the godparent of their ciders.

Expression of Japanese KAWAII

The labels and names, born from the dialogue between Tomoko and Yunico Uchiyama, can be seen as an embodiment of “Japanese KAWAII.”

We hope that people around the world will encounter LES VINS VIVANTS cider through many points of connection—through Tomoko and Takahiro’s journey, their passion for apples and cider making, and the uniquely Japanese concept of KAWAII introduced here.