Fattoria AL FIORE
Kawasaki, Miyagi
Fattoria AL FIORE is a winery located in Kawasaki Town, Miyagi Prefecture, in the Tohoku region of Japan. Nestled at the foot of the Zao Mountains, the winery produces wines that are deeply rooted in the local land, climate, and Japanese food culture.
The name “Fattoria” means “farm” in Italian, while “AL FIORE,” meaning “a flower,” was originally the name of an Italian restaurant opened in Sendai in 2005 by founder and winemaker Hirotaka Meguro. The name expresses a simple wish: that a single flower might scatter seeds, eventually spreading happiness like a field of flowers to many people.
From Restaurant to Winery
Hirotaka Meguro began his career as the owner-chef of AL FIORE, a creative Italian restaurant that emphasized homemade ingredients. As he grew his own vegetables for the restaurant, he became increasingly aware of a deeper problem facing Japanese agriculture. In rural regions where farming once sustained daily life, aging populations and the outflow of younger generations had led to widespread abandonment of farmland.
Wanting to respond to this reality in a meaningful way, Meguro began searching for a form of agriculture that could reconnect people with land and culture. Among various possibilities such as cheese making or organic vegetable farming, he chose winemaking—despite it being the most difficult option. At the time, there were no wineries in Miyagi.
His reason was simple. Wine, he believed, had the power to bring together people from different backgrounds and to carry local culture beyond regional borders.
After the Earthquake, Returning to the Land
The Great East Japan Earthquake of March 11, 2011 marked a turning point. In 2014, Meguro began cultivating grapes on abandoned land in Kawasaki Town, the area where the winery now stands. The following year, he closed the restaurant to fully commit to winemaking.
In 2016, together with his partner Reina, he began producing wine using a custom crush facility. Two years later, in 2018, Fattoria AL FIORE opened its own winery, renovated from the gymnasium of a closed elementary school. In 2021, the winery released its first vintage made entirely from grapes grown in its own vineyards.
Vineyards at the Foot of the Zao Mountains
The vineyards of Fattoria AL FIORE cover approximately 2.3 hectares and are located on slopes influenced by the Zao Mountains. The soil consists largely of volcanic ash, offering excellent drainage but also presenting challenges due to Japan’s humid climate.
To work in harmony with this environment, the winery practices grass-covered cultivation, allowing native grasses to grow naturally between the vines. Their roots help maintain soil structure and biodiversity. No chemical fertilizers are used; instead, fermented grape pomace compost, matured over three years, is returned to the soil.
A diverse range of grape varieties is grown, including Merlot, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Malvasia, and many others planted in mixed plots. Even within the same variety, each vine expresses different characteristics. Strong and resilient vines are carefully selected and propagated to better adapt to Japan’s climate.
Rain shelters are installed to protect the grapes from excessive moisture, and vine training methods are designed to improve air circulation—crucial in a region where humidity poses the greatest threat to grape health.
Accepting the Individuality of the Grapes
Winemaking at Fattoria AL FIORE is guided by a consistent philosophy: to accept the individuality of the grapes and take them seriously.
Fermentation relies exclusively on wild yeast naturally present on the grape skins. Sulphites are not used. To minimize stress on the wine, pumps are avoided entirely. Instead, tanks are moved using forklifts, allowing gravity to gently transfer the liquid. Pressing is sometimes done by hand.
In addition to stainless steel tanks and barrels, amphoras—unglazed clay vessels—are also used. These allow oxygen to enter slowly through microscopic pores, enabling gradual oxidative aging without imparting oaky aromas. Looking ahead, the winery hopes to produce amphoras made from soil sourced directly from the surrounding land.
A Winery Built with the Community
The winery itself occupies the former gymnasium of Hasekura Elementary School, which had been closed due to depopulation. The renovation was carried out together with local construction companies, carpenters, craftspeople, and volunteers from Miyagi and neighboring prefectures.
The design was led by Reina, who studied architecture and had previously worked on revitalization projects in regional cities. Although the idea of turning a gymnasium into a winery initially seemed improbable, its open structure, earthquake resistance, and generous ceiling height proved ideal for winemaking.
Only materials sourced from the Tohoku region were used, and the building employs traditional Japanese wooden construction techniques that rely on posts and beams rather than nails. Furniture, tasting counters, and even the entrance curtain were handcrafted by local artisans.
Wines for Japanese Food Culture
Fattoria AL FIORE’s wines are created with Japanese cuisine in mind. Just as European wines are deeply connected to their regional foods, Meguro believes that Japanese wines should naturally pair with local ingredients and culinary traditions.
The winery also produces wines from table grapes, varieties often dismissed elsewhere for so-called “foxy” aromas. Yet these grapes are indigenous to Japan, and their wines have gained international recognition for their originality. Rather than overpowering flavors, they offer umami-like depth reminiscent of dashi, with gentleness and restraint—qualities long valued in Japanese cuisine.
Handcrafted Details, Down to the Label
The commitment to craftsmanship extends to every detail. Wine labels are made from traditional Japanese washi paper produced entirely by hand without chemical materials. Known for its remarkable durability, washi can last for over a century.
Labels are attached using homemade rice glue, and bottle caps are sealed with handmade wax crafted from domestic beeswax, soybeans, and natural pigments. Even if a fragment of wax were to fall into the wine upon opening, it would pose no harm.
Looking Ahead
The goal of Fattoria AL FIORE remains unchanged: to pass on local culture and traditions through wine. A guesthouse project is currently underway, offering visitors the opportunity to experience life close to nature and enjoy regional food.
If Fattoria AL FIORE’s wine can become a catalyst for creating deeper connections with Miyagi and Kawasaki Town, then the wish embodied in its name—a single flower spreading seeds—will continue to take root.
