Domaine Murayama– GUBI GUBI

Tomi, Nagano

Early Life and Creative Roots

Mr Koki Murayama was born in the countryside in the south of Kyoto and grew up surrounded by nature. He was good at drawing, loved art and making things, and knew he would not become an office worker, as many people choose to do.

He moved to Osaka when he was in junior high school and enrolled in a foreign language college, but found it boring and left after a year. As he wanted to start his own business, he decided to become a hairdresser and studied for three years at a correspondence course while working in a beauty salon, and also obtained the licence. However, when it came to setting up his own beauty salon, he found it impossible to have a family because of the long hours of restraint from morning to night.

Searching for a Profession

He moved to Osaka during junior high school and enrolled in a foreign language college. However, he found the environment uninspiring and left after one year. Wanting to start his own business, he chose to become a hairdresser. While working at a beauty salon, he completed a three-year correspondence course and obtained his hairdressing license.

When he began considering opening his own salon, however, he realised that the long working hours—from morning until night—would make it difficult to sustain a family life.

From Craftsmanship to Wine

As a result, he decided to change his career and pursue furniture craftsmanship. During the day, he interned at a design office in Osaka, and at night, he worked part-time at a wine bar in Namba. It was there that he encountered wine in a serious way for the first time.

He had always enjoyed drinking wine and, through tasting many bottles with customers at the bar, he was deeply impressed by COCO FARM & WINERY’s Noumin Rosso and Takeda Winery’s Sans Soufre Blanc. These experiences made him feel that producing wine in Japan might be a worthwhile pursuit.

Choosing the Life of a Winemaker

Although becoming a sommelier was an option, his interest in craftsmanship—combined with long-term considerations such as raising children and retirement—led him to conclude that he wanted to live in the countryside and make wine himself.

In his search for land suitable for vineyards, he travelled extensively throughout Japan. Ultimately, he narrowed his choice to either Tomi in Nagano or Hokkaido, regions known for their favourable grape-growing conditions. His decision was based on several factors: the viticultural environment (described below), good access to Tokyo, the presence of many interesting producers of the same generation, and a seven-year subsidy programme offered by Nagano Prefecture to support producers. Thus, Koki Murayama’s winemaking journey in Tomi began.

The Climate and Geography of Tomi

Tomi, in Nagano Prefecture, is well suited for producing high-quality grapes. The region receives relatively little rainfall compared to other parts of Japan, and many vineyards are located on south-facing slopes. Surrounded by mountains, the area is less affected by typhoons, and the significant difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures allows the grapes to rest at night and ripen properly.

Altitude and Variety Selection

With altitudes ranging from 500 to 900 metres, it is essential to plant grape varieties appropriate to each elevation. At the same time, the ability to experiment with a wide range of varieties is one of the most appealing aspects of Tomi for winemakers. The high altitude also offers an advantage in preparing for future climate warming.

Murayama’s Vineyards

Koki’s vineyards are located at approximately 600 metres above sea level and span a total of 1.2 hectares. The soils are a mixture of volcanic material and heavy clay. He cultivates the following grape varieties: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Traminer, Kerner, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Syrah.

Training systems vary from vineyard to vineyard, and the small plot sizes are designed to be worked entirely by hand, without the use of machinery.

Mixed Farming and Sustainability

In addition to wine grapes, Koki also grows vegetables, rice, soybeans for soy sauce, wheat, apples, and tomatoes for ketchup. Across all his fields and crops, he minimises the use of pesticides as much as possible, carefully monitoring crop yields.

Biodiversity and Vineyard Health

His primary focus is maintaining healthy vineyards. He removes grass by hand as much as possible, leaving behind only a diverse selection of beneficial plants. This encourages a wide range of insects and microorganisms, fostering biodiversity within the vineyard.

If only the same types of plants remain, only the same insects and microorganisms will thrive. For this reason, he carefully considers whether each leaf is necessary, and if so, which parts should be cut. He believes that the condition of the vineyard is shaped by the accumulation of these small decisions.

He also regularly observes the vineyards of neighbouring growers, exchanging ideas and discussing a wide range of topics. These interactions provide constant inspiration, which he actively applies to his own vineyards.

Philosophy: Intuition and Logic

In his approach to winemaking, Koki places great importance on balancing intuition and logic. He believes that blindly following textbook logic is uninteresting, yet relying solely on the senses is equally insufficient.

Decision-Making in Practice

Intuition plays a role in decisions such as how the grapes are crushed, how long they remain in the tank after crushing, and when they are pressed. These choices are guided by the desired style of wine, but are judged in the moment based on measurements such as specific gravity, as well as the aroma and taste of the grapes at the time of crushing.

Experimentation and Analysis

For example, when winemaking with Kyoho—one of Japan’s well-known table grapes—the result is often overly sweet and lacks interest. How should that sweetness be removed? How long should the grapes be dried? Should the sweetness be masked during fermentation? If the acidity is low, should Chardonnay from the previous year be blended in? Or should the wine be released earlier to create a lighter-bodied style?

The logical side of his process involves data and analysis. He experiments with different methods, observes the results, and applies what he has learned to the following vintage.

The Wine He Aims to Make

Ultimately, everything comes down to taste. Mr. Murayama says that he wants to make wines that “leave a lasting impression.” For him, a memorable wine is easy to understand yet complex, with multiple elements that reveal themselves over time. It should feel familiar to the body, pair well with dashi-based dishes commonly eaten in Japan, and be “the kind of wine that is gone before you realise it.”

Present and Future

Currently, he rents the facilities of Cave Hatano, also located in Tomi, to produce his wines. Looking ahead, he dreams not only of improving quality but also of increasing production. In about five years, he hopes to establish his own winery—one that is compelling as a destination to visit. He also maintains a strong interest in how Japanese wine, and his own wines in particular, are positioned on the international stage.